Fall is well underway as we welcome the crisp air, football season and perhaps best of all, seasonal fish flown in from Japan! Because of our longstanding relationships in Japan, our chefs are able to work with the best, most exclusive fish. This month we are particularly proud to showcase a number of high-end fish options.

Also essential to our nigiri and sushi rolls is rice! We explore that history in terms of Washoku, and how it’s also used to make – SAKE!

Chef’s Choice Fish in October

Our chefs are meticulously and expertly preparing these fish during October. Flown in from Japan, they are extremely popular, and we are honored to have access to such exclusive, high-end fish at Shiro’s.

1. Akamutusu (Nodoguro) – Blackthroat seaperch

Also called Nodoguro (Nodo means “throat” in Japanese), this fish earns its name due to the interior of its throat being black. It is a fatty fish caught in various areas of Japan, and depending on the exact region where it’s caught, you’ll find it in season from summer to fall.

2. Kichiji – Rockfish

Kichiji, in season from fall to early spring, is another fatty and delicious fish similar to Akamutsu, not just in appearance, but also in taste. The appeal of its unique taste lies in its high fat content, especially for a white fleshed fish. For example, seabream (madai) has a fat content of 5-10%, whereas Kichiji is closer to 20%. In addition, seabream is customarily a celebratory fish, but in contrast, Kichiji is the chosen celebratory fish in the Hokkaido and Tohoku regions, where it is fished while in season, along with Aomori, Iwate, Miyagi, and Fukushima prefectures.

3. Amadai – Tilefish

The flesh of Amadai is translucent white, soft, and light with a subtle sweetness and a flavor similar to that of seabream. The moderately fatty Amadai has a refined taste and is often served in restaurants as a high-class fish.

4. Kinmedai – Splendid alfonsino (Red bream)

Kinmedai is a popular luxury fish with moderate fat and a refined taste. Despite its name containing “seabream” (dai or tai, 鯛, means seabream in Japanese), it does not belong to the seabream family. It is a deep-sea fish that resides at depths of 200 to 800 meters and is referred to as a “snapper” because of its large eyes, which are well-developed for locating food in deep, dark water, and because of its golden appearance. Its flesh ranges from cherry-red to white, with an elegant sweetness and soft texture, making it perfect for sashimi or sushi.

5. Kijihata – Red Spotted Grouper

You may recall from our July issue that Kijihata is Chef Yuhei’s favorite fish. Beloved by Chef for its tender flesh when cooked, and firmer texture when sliced for sashimi, this highly sought-after fish comes to us from the Fukuoka Prefecture. It is often referred to as a “phantom prized fish” due to its extreme rarity.

All fish introduced here are from Toyosu, Japan’s largest fish market. Some are only available in the omakase course at the sushi bar, but you can also enjoy them in the dining room as an a la carte order! This is a great time to try some of Japan’s most popular fish at Shiro’s!

Washoku – Rice for Sake

Both sushi and sake use rice as a main ingredient. However, the type of rice used for sake is different from that used for sushi. Rice cultivation in Japan began over 3,000 years ago, but sake brewing with rice and rice malt (koji) was developed during the Nara period (710-794 AD). By the Edo period (1603-1868), Hyogo Prefecture had become the leading producer of sake rice. During the Meiji period, advancements in sake rice breeding were made, especially with the establishment of the Brewing Research Institute in 1904. However, during World War II, the Food Control Law (1942) prioritized rice for food, leading to the decline of many sake rice varieties. Farmers revived key strains such as Omachi and Kame no O despite these challenges.

Recently, there has been a growing focus on local production and collaboration between brewers and farmers. This movement allows brewers to cultivate and develop new sake rice varieties tailored to regional characteristics.

The most prominent sake rice varieties include Yamada Nishiki, Gohyakumangoku, and Miyama Nishiki, which account for more than 60% of total sake rice production. Yamada Nishiki, often considered the “king” of sake rice, is ideal for premium sakes like Daiginjo due to its large grains, appropriate starch content, and low protein. It is primarily grown in Hyogo, Okayama, and Yamaguchi Prefectures. Representative brands include Dassai Junmai Daiginjo 23. Gohyakumangoku, developed in Niigata and known for its crisp, dry flavor, led to a sake boom in the 1980s. It is mainly produced in Niigata, Toyama, and Fukui, with brands such as Kubota Junmai Daiginjo highlighting its clean and sharp taste. Alternatively, Miyama Nishiki comes in third as the most popular sake rice. Utilized mostly in Northern Japan, Miyama Nishiki has a mild sweetness, muted aromatics and grainy profile, which you’ll find in brands such as Otokoyama, Miyasaka, and Hatsumago Junmai.

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